Opel Astra A

1991-1998 of release

Repair and operation of the car

Opel Astra A
+ 1. Maintenance instruction
+ 2. Maintenance
+ 3. Engines
+ 4. Ventilation and heating
+ 5. Power supply system
+ 6. System of decrease in toxicity
+ 7. Coupling
+ 8. Transmissions
+ 9. Half shafts
+ 10. Brake system
+ 11. Suspension bracket and steering
- 12. Body
   12.1. Technical characteristics
   12.2. Maintenance and repair of a body
   12.3. Vinyl finishing
   12.4. Upholstery and rugs
   12.5. Repair of insignificant damages
   12.6. Repair of considerable damages
   12.7. Front and rear bumper
   12.8. Front grille
   12.9. The water taking away panel before a windshield
   12:10. Cowl
   12:11. Cowl loops
   12:12. Lock elements
   12:13. Rope of opening of a cowl
   12:14. Doors
   12:15. Internal handle of opening of a door
   12:16. External handle of opening of a door
   12:17. Locks of doors
   12:18. Drum of the lock of a forward door
   12:19. Lock clamp
   12:20. Door glass
   12:21. Window regulator mechanism
   12:22. A trunk lid (models with a body like "Sedan")
   12:23. Trunk lid loops
   12:24. Trunk lid elements
   12:25. Back door
   12:26. Loops of a back door
   12:27. Elements of a back door
   12:28. Elements of the central lock
   12:29. Elements of power windows
   12:30. Rear-view mirror
   12:31. Glass of a rear-view mirror
   12:32. Elements of rear-view mirrors with the electric drive
   12:33. Internal rear-view mirror
   12:34. Front and back glass
   12:35. Back triangular glasses
   12:36. Panel of the top hatch
   12:37. Elements of the top hatch
   12:38. Panels of wheel niches
   12:39. Protective guard of the engine
   12:40. Gate of a jellied mouth of the fuel tank
   12:41. Back spoilers
   12:42. External elements of finishing of a body
   12:43. Side decorative panels and additional spoilers
   12:44. Sitting lobbies
   12:45. Back sitting
   12:46. Natyazhiteli of seat belts of front seats
   12:47. Seat belts
   12:48. Regulators of height of seat belts
   12:49. Internal panels of finishing
   12:50. Carpets
   12:51. Upholstery of a ceiling of salon
   12:52. Internal panels of finishing
   12:53. Panels of finishing of a luggage carrier, back door and trunk lid
   12:54. Central console
   12:55. Central panel of finishing of the dashboard
   12:56. Casings of a steering column
   12:57. Panel of finishing of an instrument guard
   12:58. Glove compartment
   12:59. Drum of the lock of a glove compartment
   12.60. Lower expostulated finishings under the dashboard
   12.61. Dashboard
+ 13. Electric equipment
+ 14. Electrical circuitries


12.5. Repair of insignificant damages


Repair of small scratches

If scratch superficial also does not affect body metal, repair is very simple. Slightly rub the scratched surface with thin polishing structure to remove friable paint and wax. Wash out a surface clear water.

Apply paint for coloring on scratch by means of a small brush. Continue to apply paint coats until paint completely does not fill scratch. Let's new paint dry up, at least, within two weeks, and then mix it with surrounding paint, заполировав the painted area by means of thin polishing structure. And, at last, apply the top layer of wax on the scratched surface.

If scratch got through paint and damaged body metal, having caused emergence of a rust, it is necessary to apply other procedure of repair. Remove a rust from the scratch basis by means of a pocket knife, and then apply anticorrosive paint to prevent emergence of a rust in the future. Having used the rubber or nylon applicator, cover the scratched area with a glaze (a glaze – a translucent paint layer). Before the glaze in scratch will harden, place a piece of smooth cotton fabric around a finger-tip. Ship fabric in a thinner, and then quickly carry out by it around a scratch surface. It will help you will be convinced that a glaze surface slightly hollow. Now it is possible to paint over scratch.


If it is necessary, the glaze can be mixed with a thinner to prepare very thin putty which is ideal for filling of narrow scratches.

Repair of dents

During repair of dents the first that needs to be made, it to correct a dent that the damaged place was as it is possible closer to an initial form. There is no sense to try to restore completely an initial form as metal in the damaged place stretches, and it cannot be restored to an initial contour. It is better to level a dent so that its level was about 3 mm below than the level of surrounding metal.

In case the dent very small, is not present sense it at all to level.

Strongly hold wooden whetstone from a reverse side of metal to absorb blows of the hammer and to prevent metal stretching.

If the dent is in such part of a body which has a double layer, or something else makes impossible access from within, it is necessary to apply other procedure. Drill several small openings in metal in the damaged surface, mainly in the deepest parts. Screw in the long, self-cut screws in openings so that they entered strong gearing with metal. Now it is possible to correct a dent, having pulled for the acting heads of screws by means of flat-nose pliers.

The following stage of repair this removal of paint from the damaged surface and from surrounding metal approximately on 2,5 cm. It becomes by means of a wire brush or the disk for grinding which is put on a drill, however with not smaller efficiency it can be made manually by means of an emery paper. To finish preparations for filling, smooth out the screw-driver or a file the surface of the bared metal, or drill small openings in the damaged area. It will provide good coupling of metal and a glaze. To finish repair, see the Filling point and painting.

Repair of openings from a rust or cracks

Peel all paint from the damaged surface and from surrounding metal in a radius about 2,5 cm, having used the emery paper or a wire brush which is put on a drill. If they are inaccessible, this work can be made manually by means of several sheets of an emery paper.

Having peeled the paint, you will be able to define extent of corrosion and to solve, whether to replace the whole panel or if it is possible, to repair the damaged surface. New panels of a body are not so expensive as many people think, and to install the new panel very often much quicker, than to repair the big surface damaged by a rust.

Remove all parts of decorative finishing from the damaged area, except for those which work as the directing initial form of the damaged car body, such as the headlight case and so on. Having used scissors on metal or a hacksaw cloth, remove all damaged metal, and also any other metal on which there are rust traces. The hammer bend edges of an opening inside to create small dredging for filling material.

Wire brush smooth out the damaged surface to remove a powdery rust from the surface of metal. If there is an access to a back part of a rusty surface, cover it with anticorrosive paint.

Before final seal to a zakuporta in any way opening. It can be made by means of a tin, priklepanny or screwed in in an opening, or establish in an opening by a wire grid.

When the opening is corked, the damaged area can be filled and painted over.

Filling and painting

Now well large number of fillers for repair of a body, however, frankly speaking, a set of details for repair of a body in which there is a filling paste and a tube of a hardener of polymers best of all is suitable for carrying out repair work. The wide flexible plastic or nylon applicator will be necessary for you for alignment of a surface of filling. Mix a small amount of mix of filling on a pure wooden plate or a piece of cardboard (economically spending a hardener). Follow instructions of producers on packing, otherwise filling will harden incorrectly.

Using the applicator, apply filling paste on the prepared surface. Carry out by the applicator on the surface of filling to reach a desirable contour and to balance the surface of filling. When the initial level and a contour are reached, stop work with paste. If you continue, then paste will stick to the applicator. Continue to apply thin films of paste with 20-minute intervals until the level of filling precisely corresponds to the level of surrounding metal.

When filling hardens, its surplus can be removed by means of a file. Further it is necessary to use an emery paper, gradually increasing its granularity, having begun with paper with an indicator of granularity of 180 units and having finished with waterproof paper with an indicator of granularity of 600 units. Always reel up an emery paper on rubber or wooden whetstone, otherwise the surface of filling will not be completely flat. During grinding of a surface of filling the waterproof emery paper with an indicator of granularity of 600 units needs to be moistened periodically in water. It will help to reach very smooth surface.

Now the ring of naked metal which, in turn, has to be surrounded with the good intact paint has to surround the field of repair. Wash out the field of repair by water until all dust which remained after grinding is not removed.

On all smoothed-out surface apply a thin film of a soil covering. It will help to find all defects on the surface of filling. Correct the found defects by means of fresh filling or a lassirovka and once again smooth out a surface an emery paper. Repeat the procedure of putting primer and filling until you are not satisfied with quality of a surface of filling and an edge of paint. Wash out a surface clear water and let's it dry completely.

Now the field of repair is ready to painting. Coloring by dispersion needs to be carried out at warm, dry, windless weather when in air there is no dust. These conditions can be reached if you have an access to the big production room. However if you have to work in the open air, it is necessary to choose day of painting very carefully. If you work indoors, sprinkle water a floor. It will help you to beat dust which differently can rise in air. If the field of repair is on one panel of a body, close all surrounding panels. It will help you to minimize small discrepancy in color of paint. Decorative details of finishing, such as chromic slips, door handles and so on, it is also necessary to disguise or remove. For masking use an adhesive tape and several layers of paper.

Before dispersion carefully shake up paint, and then be trained to spray it to learn to do it correctly. Apply a thick layer of primer on the repaired surface. It is better to apply several thin films, than one thick. By means of an emery paper with granularity of 600 units smooth out the surface of primer until it does not become very smooth. During this operation the processed surface has to be moistened with water carefully. The emery paper needs also to be lowered periodically in water. Let's primer dry before drawing additional layers.

Spray paint on the top layer, increasing its thickness by drawing several layers. Begin to spray paint from the center of the repaired area, and then, using roundabouts, process all repaired surface, and also about 5 cm of surrounding paint. Remove all masking material in 10–15 minutes after drawing the last paint coat. Let's new paint dry, at least, two weeks, and then by means of very thin grinding structure make imperceptible transition from new paint to initial. In conclusion of work put a wax layer.

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